SCOTLAND TOUR 2023
PART ONE.
IN MAY, 2023 WE PLANNED A 1,500 MILE ROAD TRIP IN OUR CARAVAN, AROUND THE WEST COAST OF SCOTLAND AND THE ISLE OF SKYE. WE AVOIDED MIDGES, AND HAD ONLY ONE AND A HALF DAY'S RAIN IN ALMOST A MONTH. WE TICKED ALL OUR 'MUST DO' BOXES, AND THIS IS THE BLOG OF THAT FANTASTIC TRIP.
Yes, this is a BIG blog (well, we WERE there for a whole month, and had good weather - so the amount of pics reflect that).
The middle section is devoted to our two weeks on Skye, which is an absolutely mind-blowing place.
MOONRISE OVER LOCH LINNHE.
Taken at the end of our tour, in Glencoe, but I wanted to feature this shot now.
This whole trip had been meticulously planned and booked by my wife - field marshal Rommel - err, no, sorry - Sue :-)
She had spent many a night with her head in different books, maps and schedules to plan each day to perfection - and it went off without a hitch. We only changed one thing - we caught the ferry from Mallaig to Skye when we found out how reasonable the fare was.
This was Sue's 'incredible plan'.
.....and so - we set off..........
FIRST STOP - MOFFAT,
CALLING AT ST CONAN'S CHURCH,
SETTLING IN AT SEAVIEW SITE.
It's a long drive, so we had a one night stopover at Moffat. I've been here before when I walked the Scottish coast to coast walk - the Southern Upland Way, so I was slightly familiar with the place.
The small site was on the outskirts. We were the only ones there that night, and this was the cracking view from our window.
You can read the blog of that walk;
This is the Buccleuch Arms hotel - one of the grander buildings in the town.
A statue to a ram! This was commissioned by a local businessman, William Covin, as a gift to the town. When unveiled, a local noted that it had NO EARS! Legend says that the artist who made it, William Brodie, went back to his hotel and hanged himself in shame. Nice legend - but he in fact died at home in Edinburgh six years later!
Moffat church.
THE TRIP UP.
ST CONANS KIRK CHURCH, AND SEAVIEW CARAVAN SITE AT BENDERLOCH,
PROBABLY THE BEST SITE WE'VE EVER STAYED ON.
We very nearly drove past this magnificent building, St Conan's Kirk church, but JUST managed to fit in a small lay-by with the caravan in tow. I'm SO glad we did stop, as it's a really beautiful and unusual place.
Rear view of the church, with beautiful feature stone walls, Loch Awe is just to the right.
You can read all about it HERE
Looking up the sculpture.
Can you guess what this is??
It is actually a coffin cage - to deter grave robbing (which was prevalent in those times).
After our stop off at St Conan's, we pushed on to Oban and the best caravan site we've ever stayed on - the Seaview site.
This is the Connel bridge in Oban, which we crossed to get to Seaview.
The quirky entrance drive to the Seaview site
All this hand-painted stuff was done by the owner, Duncan, and his father, who started the site.
Set up, and relaxed.
The outlook from this site is fabulous.
The walk to the beach is down a gorse-lined lane.
Cheers!
Our first home cooked meal this holiday.
Plenty of room, and a superb outlook.
Framed Susie and view. 💓
Like I said - the clag was still down, BUT it did seem to be clearing slowly.
This guy's dog was getting excited - but of course, they have to be kept under close control on the protected island.
Nature is just so wonderful!
Before we knew it - we were surrounded by DOZENS of Puffins.
PART SIX
Sue had seen the Cuillin in these conditions many years ago, and was desperate for me to see it like this, and here it was - in all it's glory and magnificence..jpg)
PART TWO
OBAN, McCAIG'S TOWER,
PORT APPIN AND LISMORE.
After settling in at the seaview site,
we went to explore Oban.
There's a tower in Oban called McCaig's tower. We were keen to explore!
Inside the impressive tower - lots of steps and windows.
In fact, there are 94 - yes NINETY FOUR arches in all.
The tower was a folly, built in 1897 by John Stuart McCaig out of local granite.
Great views out of the 'windows'. Imagine having a house up here on Battery Hill.
Oban and the harbour, from McCaig's tower.
Some old bloke on the parapet.
View across the harbour in Oban.
We knew there was a distillery here, so we just HAD to visit!
Hmmmm - £120 - not sure I like whisky THAT much!
Oh look - my name on a bottle 😃
A nice bottle of Lagavulin...........
HOW MUCH!!!!!! 😮😮
After the distillery, we walked to the harbour. We absolutely LOVE harbours and marinas, either here or abroad.
We came upon this little gem - the Green Shack. We'd had a late breakfast, so weren't really hungry. If I'd known what was on offer, and the quality, I would have gone VERY hungry!
This is the seafood sharing platter.
At £42, it was the cheapest one we found on our whole holiday
and it looked great for the money!
Two ladies were devouring this, while their husbands looked on. They (the husbands) looked almost revolted, while the ladies made lots of 'Mmmmmmm!' noises as the plateful quickly disappeared.
We had some scallops, which were perfection, and crevettes. We also took a dressed crab home for later, again delicious.
We decided to investigate a local castle, Dunstaffnage.
This view is over Loch Ardmucknish. There's a small, free car park, with a short walk up to the castle itself.
Unfortunately, the castle was closing in half an hour, so we didn't want to pay the full entrance fee for such little time, so we settled for just exploring the grounds, and having ice creams.
Castle info'
The castle grounds are quiet and peaceful, and a nice place to explore on a warm, summer's day (without midges).
PART THREE
PORT APPIN AND LISMORE ISLAND.
PEACE AND TRANQUILITY.
Port Appin was a bit of a drive, but that's one thing about driving in rural Scotland - it's an absolute DELIGHT! There is very little traffic, and it's just like stepping back in time to when I first started driving.
We arrived in port Appin to see this old hulk on the shore, with great views beyond across Loch Linnhe to Lismore island.
Much more modern was the little ferry, that goes back and forth to Lismore island.
Broody-looking mountains on the far side of Loch Linnhe.
Patient passengers.
After alighting on Lismore island, we set off to walk the quiet lanes to Port Ramsay, as some friends of ours were going to stay there and we wanted to suss it out.
The wildflowers were in abundance at the quiet roadside.
Port Ramsay.Very, very quiet and doesn't look much, but our friends are avid kayakers - this would be heaven to them!
After exploring and checking out the cottages, we decided to set off back. We would have liked to explore this island much more, but time was our enemy today.
Well, well - JUST what we could have done with to explore! Unfortunately, these electric bikes were free to use ONLY if you were a resident.
Come on - where have you two been - we're ready to cast off!
Back at Port Appin, we went into the Pierhouse hotel for coffee. A beautiful, but very expensive place.
Video of the inside of the hotel.
View from the bar.
Always a sucker for a scone - especially home made 😜
The mountains were looking clearer as the day wore on.
Lighthouse in Loch Linnhe.
Now this is what Scotland is all about!!!
Those VIEWS 😍😍😍
Panorama of the view.
(click for bigger version).
Tomorrow, we are to drive to Oban, then onwards to Craignure by ferry, and then drive right up the island's East side to Tobermory, at the top of Mull.
PART FOUR
OBAN, TOBERMORY, CRAIGNURE,
CALGARY BEACH,
STANDING STONES OF KILMORE
Leaving Oban.
Duart castle, famous location of many films etc
Arriving at Craignure.
On the drive to Calgary beach, we came across these old boat hulls.They almost looked like paintings.
We drove through Tobermory and carried on, as it was still early. We wanted to visit Calgary beach at the far north west end of Mull. The little B road was a delight to drive. I was quite getting into this type of driving - like going back in time!
After the pleasant drive, we reached Calgary beach. Remote and wonderfully deserted as we approached it.
We had our eyes on that headland.
Perfect day for it!
After exploring the main beach, we decided to walk to the headland we could see.This is looking back from halfway there.
This is the old boat pier. This small pier, constructed with stone from Iona was originally built to allow 'puffers' to deliver coal to the Mornish Estate and was also used to transport sheep to and from the Treshnish Isles for grazing.
The sky was gorgeous now, with high cumulus clouds and a deep blue hue. The sun was also really warm, and the walking pleasant.
We came across this old caravan - well past it's sell-by date!
We wondered what was responsible for the damage - weather or vandals (although it's hard to imagine vandals this far out)
Calgary beach video
Afterwards, our reward was an ice cream from the little beach cafe.
I love the decoration of all the old boat buffers - probably washed onto the beach by the tides. The ice cream was to DIE for 💓
So very like the Caribbean - except for the water temperature 😰
Gotta have a paddle though!
Just off the roadside between Calgary and Tobermory, we parked up to explore.
We noticed some standing stones, called The Stones of Kilmore, so stopped off to investigate. The Kilmore Standing Stones are at Dervaig, and were once hidden away in the forest but the trees have since been felled, so the stones are in plain sight now. We parked at the car park at the top of the hill, and the path to the stones is waymarked from here, just across the road. The row is just inside where the forest plantation used to be (you can see the stumps).
There are a set of 5 standing stones but only 2 of these remain standing, the other 3 are lying down. The upright stones are both approximately 2.5 metres high.
The cairn above the car park. The stones are across the other side of the road, beyond the car park, this side of the trees.
After our Calgary beach drive, we drove on to the pretty town of Tobermory. We were staying at a local hotel (very expensive) and going on to Staffa tomorrow, but first - we had to find somewhere to eat!
These are the famous painted houses in Tobermory.
We decided to eat in a local pub - as EVERYWHERE was just SO busy!
I ordered a pie and, after quite a long wait, was served what looked like stew! I questioned it, and the barman went to the kitchen, only to return and tell me they'd run out of pie tops????
When is a pie not a pie?
When we awoke, the rain was clattering on the windows :-(
We arose early, as we had a long drive to get to Fionnphort, on the lower west tip of the island for our ferry to Staffa. Visibility was virtually zero, and we held out little hope for the trip.
PART FOUR.
Phionnphort, Staffa, Fingal's Cave,
the Puffins and Iona.
Although the rain abated while we ate our early breakfast, I knew I was missing a treat on the drive to Phionnphort because Sue had done it years ago, and told me about it.The mountains are EPIC around here on a clear day - so I was bitterly disappointed not to be seeing them.
But, were we downhearted? - A bit! We parked up, and boarded our trip boat for Staffa.
The bosun supplied oilskins (just in case) but, by now, things were improving. Not to the extent we could see much in the distance, but at least we were dry.
On the trip out, the bosun pointed out various seabirds and, when he spotted a lone seal on a rock, made a slight detour for us to get a closer view.
They look so awkward sometimes when lying like this.
No sun - but a sing-song cheered us up :-)
Like I said - the clag was still down, BUT it did seem to be clearing slowly.
Approaching a misty Staffa.
This guy's dog was getting excited - but of course, they have to be kept under close control on the protected island.
We alighted- and were advised to be VERY careful. Also the bosun said to do Fingal's cave first, as we may run out of time after climbing up to the Puffin observation place.
The walk in across the basalt columns.
The trip company had thoughtfully put some non-slip tops on some of the flat stones (but you still had to be VERY careful!)
The light was, shall we say, tricky for photo's, but the overall effect of this place was still mind-boggling!
Inside Fingal's cave.
A place I've wanted to visit since falling in love with Mendelssohn's 'Hebrides overture' at school. Now - here I was!
Sue was excited too - many, many years had passed since her Dad bought her here. I'd taken her to The Giant's Causeway in Northern Ireland, as this basalt phenomenon runs all the way there , beneath the Irish Sea. You can read about that trip here;
That island of columns behind me was just incredible!
Nature is just so wonderful!
A topographic plate on the cliffs gave information on Staffa and surrounding views (of which, there were none today).
The island was gifted to the National Trust as recently as 1986. The American owner did it for his wife's birthday.
We saw lots of Shag on the rocks, but what we were REALLY here to see was Puffins!
The boat pulled offshore to wait for us while we explored.The rock strata on Staffa is just CRAZY - I've never seen anything else like it.
Come on Les - keep up!
The 'raft' of Puffins. The trip people had placed a red marker on the cliff, this was the best place to stand, they said. They were right!
We were told to look out for this raft, and be patient, then maybe.....just MAYBE.....
First, one flew up to the cliffs....then another.... then another.
It was an absolutely MAGICAL experience.
The start of the rush!
Billing and cooing with each other, before entering their burrow.
Up close and personal with these comical little birds was a lovely thing. They seemed almost tame, just standing there, looking up at us and making that cute 'awwwww' noise. 💓
They just went about their nest-building duties, oblivious to us.
All too soon, it was time to return to the boat. What a GREAT trip this had been - despite the weather (it could have been worse though). We won't forget this experience in a hurry!
No oilskins needed on the return trip.
Now, it was the turn of Iona.
The boat calls at Iona anyway, so you're given the opportunity to deboard and catch a later boat back to Phionnphort, which we decided to do.
Iona
We hadn't got much time on the island, so only managed to walk the east side. First though, we were peckish, so went into the cafe on the dock. We ordered fish chowder, not expecting great things, as we were a captive audience, but I have to say- it was the BEST fish chowder I've ever had! All served up with big chunks of fresh brown bread, and BUTTER!
This is Iona abbey, the late John Smith, leader of the labour party, is laid to rest on Iona. It's easy to miss his grave and headstone, as it's a very simple thing. This is what Wikipedia says;
On 20 May 1994, following a public funeral service in Cluny Parish Church, Edinburgh, which was attended by almost 1,000 people, Smith was buried in a private family service on the island of Iona, at the sacred burial ground of Reilig Odhráin, where many early Scottish and Norse kings are said to be buried.
Inside St Oran's chapel.
The sun had decided to come out, and things were REALLY heating up! We decided to walk to the beaches at the north end of the island, famed as they are for their likeness to the sands of the Caribbean.
I know what Sue's thinking - she'd LOVE to get in there for a swim!
Iona gallery and pottery.
I DO wonder how they make a living out here?
The little harbour and jetty, quiet today.
After a short wait on the quay, the ferry arrived and we returned to Phiannphort for the drive back to Craignure and the ferry onwards to Oban. With visibility greatly improved, I was treated to some of the views I'd missed this morning.
Leaving the sun behind, streaking through the clouds, we left Craignure and pressed on back to Oban, for our return to our caravan, which we left at the Seaview site.
PART FIVE
SMALL ISLES CARAVAN SITE
AND ARISAIG.
Oban was very quiet by the time we docked. It was too late for a visit to the Green Shack seafood cafe - which was a great disappointment.
Freshly landed crab - ready for the cafe kitchen.
We returned to our caravan, hitched up and set off for our next stopover - the Small Isles site at Arisaig. This was another gem.
Not as well appointed as the Seaview, but only five vans, and the basics - electric hook up, water and toilet disposal - all we needed really.
The sands here are, again, pure white. This photo reminds me of the 'Desiderata' poem :-)
Sue inspects - I think it passes muster!
This beach is private, so you can only access it if you're staying at the Small Isles site.
We could see the Mallaig to Fort William steam trains when they chuffed past. A perfect backdrop on a day like today. We really were being lucky with the weather, on the whole.
A panorama of the beach at the Small Isles site.
Looking back to the site from the Small Isles beach.
Lots of sea pinks amongst the grass.
Getting ready for our first sunset here, and we'd been told they are amazing.
Here we go!
I love this sort of shot.
The tide is well out, but there's little beach when it's full in.
The Small Isles owner's house - what a position- and WHAT VIEWS! (BUT - as I always remind myself - they have the dreaded MIDGES to contend with)
Beautiful position - that's us on the left.
The draw of the sea was just too much, and Sue decided it was time!
The isle of Eigg looked stunning in this light tonight.
The small lump on the left is a tiny islet called Eilean Chathastail.
You'd just NEVER get fed up with this!
We spent every evening watching the lovely sunsets from here.
One of the many ferries plying the islands.
The return train from Fort William.
We went to 'suss out' Mallaig the day before getting the ferry, just be be comfortable with where things are when I had the caravan in tow. It was all pretty straightforward though. We left the Small Isles site early, so had a few hours to kill before the ferry to Skye. We'd noticed some very big lay-bys near to Mallaig, so parked in one and found a nice spot to sunbathe and watch the world go by.
PART SIX
FERRY TO SKYE, SLIGACHAN.
While watching the comings and going of the Mallaig to Fort William steam train, we spotted what we thought was a seal.
To our amazement and delight, we realised it was a sea otter.
The weather took a turn downwards, and cloud started rolling in.
Time to head off.
After that exciting incident with the otter, it was time to move on to Mallaig and our ferry to Armadale on Skye. We were going to drive to our next site at Carbost, but when we saw how cheap it was to take the car and caravan (£26) it was a no-brainer!!
Mind you, the QE2 it AIN'T 😂😂😂
We drove the road between Armadale and Carbost, with the weather and visibility getting better and better , and as we reached Sligachan - THIS is what greeted us. 😮
We just HAD to stop, even though time was moving on, and we wanted to get settled in at the next site, still another 8 miles on.
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OH - MY- GOD!!!
Does this blow your mind, or WHAT???
Marsco (left) and the Cuillin.
A panorama of the view
(Click to improve size).
They say kissin's out of fashion, when gorse is out of flower.
Every turn was a calendar shot.
The Inaccessible Pinnacle, centre shot, the blocker for many a ridge walk.
A short walk up the path brings you to the waterfalls and pools.
They looked very inviting, but time was moving on.
Watch this space - Sue had earmarked this place.
Not only a beautiful evening - but our very own inversion too.
How lucky can you get?
Happy, happy, happy 💓💓💓
The old Sligachan bridge - one of the most photographed in the country.
Cant resist scallops with black pudding - a marriage made in heaven!
We made our way back down, as we wanted to get off to our next place - Neist Point.
On the drive to Neist Point, we could see this landmark, McCleod's table. This flat-topped mountain is a nature reserve. It's distinctive shape can be seen for miles.
The brooding coastline near Neist Point. Although it looks cloudy, the day was improving all the time.
Our first view of Neist Point.
The interior is quite impressive, with lots of beer bling on show.
This outcrop is on the right of the path as you climb up.
Video of the walk up to the pools at Sligachan.
PART SEVEN
THE ISLE OF SKYE.
CARBOST, TALISKER DISTILLERY, THE OLD INN, & THE OYSTER SHED.
This is the beginning of our two weeks on the island. We had a long tick list of things we wanted to do. So far, the weather had been kind, and the midges virtually non-existent - result!
We traveled across Skye to our first base on the West coast, Carbost.When we turned off the main road towards Carbost, this fellow greeted us.
And BOY! He wasn't joking!!!
😮
These were, without doubt, the worst roads I'd ever seen! Mind you, it kept speeds down - maybe that's why they don't fix them?
You know things are bad when you can even buy a car sticker!
The site at Carbost is just hard standing. Not pretty, by any standards but served it's purpose. Water & Electric right on the pitch, shower and toilet block, if needed.
The views over Loch Harport were super.
Just behind us was a track leading uphill. We thought was might as well explore!
Those sheep watched us - what was up there, we wondered?
The answer was - a sort of burial mound, complete with stone circle - maybe a hut circle?
The views from up here were tremendous. Whoever lived (or died) here had the best! We tried and tried online, to find our more about this place, but nothing! Apparently, there are LOADS of these scattered about in Scotland.
As the Talisker distillery is here, we had a wander down to investigate. It's a really nice looking building, not sure of the age, but it looks fairly new?
Inside, it looks ultra-modern! It's owned (like many distilleries) by the Diagio group.
From Wikipedia; Diageo plc is a British multinational alcoholic beverage company, with its headquarters in London, England. It operates from 132 sites around the world. It is a major distributor of Scotch whisky and other spirits.
I mean, I like a dram, but at this price - FAR too rich for my taste!
We also had a local pub just down the road, the Old Inn.
Fortunately (well, more planned than by fortune) there were no midges to eat us while WE ate. These outside tables would be unusable if there were.
This cullen skink too - OMG 💓
Next day dawned quite good, and we set off to the Fairy Pools, another box to tick on our list.
According to all we spoke to who have been before (including Sue), this place has changed VASTLY in the past few years.
There's a huge new car park (with extortionate prices), and the path to the pools is stone laid. Not pretty, but necessary, because the millions of feet have caused bad erosion. A victim of it's own popularity.
Here's Sue, excited to get going. We were intrigued by that gash down the centre of that mountain in the centre of the shot.
Quite a few people were making the trip, but not too busy.
PART EIGHT
Glenbrittle, Neist point
and Coral Bay.
The day dawned warm and clear, so we set off to tick a few more boxes. Glenbrittle is a good place to access or view the
southern end of the Cuillin, and on such a lovely day, we were keen to see it!
This is Glenbrittle bay. Yesterday, we went to the Fairy Pools and today we passed them on the road here. One thing we DID miss (we didn't realise it was there until after we came home) was Glenbrittle waterfalls. There's a track opposite the youth hostel that allows access to it. Ah well - next time!
This is a lovely place, with a HUGE sweeping beach. There's also a very good camp site here (with the BEST coffee of the whole trip).
This view forward just made us shudder with anticipation. How wonderful does the Cuillin look today?
This is looking back to the bay from higher up the path.
We both wished we had younger legs - as the Cuillin drew us in.
Still, this is more than a lot of people our age do :-)
We also wished we had time to walk the headland to the left, as there's a Viking settlement ruin (Rubha an Dùnain)
there we would have liked to have seen.
Looking down to Glenbrittle beach.
WHAT a spectacular lump of rock, jutting upwards
in defiance to the sea.
Looking across to Waterstein Head, a no lesser dramatic piece of the coastline.
The lighthouse viewpoint - we'd be going there after visiting the lighthouse.
As you'd expect with such steep cliffs, there were plenty of seabirds nesting here.
Walking forwards, we got our next view of the lighthouse.
Up close and personal - Neist point lighthouse.
We've seen a LOT of this contentious rock balancing abroad, but not so much in this country, however - HERE people had gone to town with building little towers (some of them not so little).
It was almost like some kind of outdoor art exhibition!
A wild and windy Neist Point.
The precarious ledges made for ideal nesting sites.
Some were obviously built to resemble known structures, like Stonehenge, others as just a balancing act.
One of the taller ones.
For perspective.
A small, detached one on the perimeter.
Neist Point lighthouse and fog horn.
(I wouldn't like to be standing at the side of that when it goes off!!)
You can see the improvement in the day here.
Time to make our way to the viewpoint, quite a walk away
from the lighthouse.
Well worth the walk though.
After that, we left Neist Point to head to a little bay, famous for being made up of millions of small coral fragments.
After a long drive down a narrow, twisty, potholed road, we got to a small car park where we got the LAST space (it's a very popular place, and on many tick lists).
You can see how it stands out against it's surroundings.
A white slash in a stony environment.
Happy bunnies.
That's MacLeods table in the distance.
Sue decided to check for coral.
Yep! Millions of little bits of coral - like snowflakes,
no two seemed to be the same.
Always an artist - this stone circle had been
done by a previous visitor.
Dunvegan castle.
As it was late in the day, we decided not to go inside Dunvegan, as it wouldn't be worth the £14 entry fee.
PART NINE
The Oyster shed, Carbost headland (Portnalong) & Talisker bay.
Today, we decided to explore closer to home, and take a look at the headland beyond Carbost.
But first, we wanted to visit THE place for seafood around here - the famous oyster shed. We had already been once, but today we went more hungry, hoping for a better selection, as last time they had no mussels, and no prawns.
As you can see - again we were unlucky :-(
We decided on Oysters and prawns. I'm not really a massive fan of oysters, I think they are overrated, but when in Rome.....
You can't get the perspective here, but this jellyfish was the size of a dustbin lid!!
Gotta love an old Landy :-)
PART TEN
After Fiscavaig, this road too ended abruptly, and the only thing for us to do was turn around. To be honest, it was an enjoyable drive, with little or no traffic.
We consulted the map, and set off for Talisker Bay. You could only drive so far, then it was a hike to the actual bay.
However, we did get sorted, and took the track across the fields to Talisker bay. You can see a really high waterfall on the other side of the beach. Yes, we would have liked to go up to it, but the tide was high, and prevented access.
Time for a bit of beachcombing.
A panorama of Talisker bay.
They sold all manner of eggs from an honesty box at the gate. The house was built and occupied by the MacLeod clan chief for many years.
You can read all about it's rich history if you;
After our seafood feast at lunch, it was a huge paradox to find that a weekly fish and chip van was parked up on our campsite!
Of course, with this being Scotland, the local 'delicacy' was available. (No - we didn't).
PORTREE AND
THE FAIRY GLEN.
This is the camp site at Portree. It's is a very large site, with all amenities but is all hard standing, as opposed to grass. The views are great, if you pitch on the right looking out to the mountains. There's lots of grass for tents to pitch too.
Unfortunately, today our luck ran out with the weather, and we awoke to this.
But, after a little while, it brightened up, and we set off to do a walk into town to explore, and also to walk along the peninsula.
This is the small town of Portree.
Views were a bit tainted by the mist and low vis', but it was sure warming up as we set off along the headland, the Scorrybreac trail..
There was a large salmon farm in the straights, with boats coming and going to it.
The skies still looked overcast, but were starting to clear. It was getting too warm for a coat now
The impressive cliffs of Creag Mhor ahead.
The huge salmon farm in the straights.
The short path soon turns inland to head back to Portree.
The path is clear and easy to follow.
Still very hazy views back to town,
We noticed this beautiful house, and a local who was walking by, told us it was once lived in by the clan chief.
Home, sweet home.
Time for some comfort food for dinner.
PART ELEVEN
THE FAIRY GLEN.
The next morning, the weather still looked a bit iffy, but we set off to find the |Fairy Glen anyway.
Uig tower, also known as Captain Fraser's folly.
A 19th century folly building.
As we drove on, the ground suddenly started to look very strange!
This was the Fairy Glen, a weird and wonderful place, geologically and mythically.
Mounds, rock towers, weird shaped hillocks all sprung up around us. SUCH a shame that the light wasn't better for the pictures.
(Yes, that's me on the top)
The Fairy Glen
These stone circles and patterns were placed by people but, of course, it was just to perpetuate the fairy myth.
Quite a few people had braved the drizzle to walk around the site. I can imagine it gets VERY busy at times.
View from the top of the Fairy Castle
Views - lost in the mistle.
It almost looks man-made - quarry-like!
But no - all done by fairies (I'm told).
Now, the drizzle began in earnest - and we were furthest from the car, without coats :-(
Time to give in to the weather and head on back.
The weather looked more promising for tomorrow - and we wanted to believe it, as we had a big day planned - the mighty Quiraing!
PART TWELVE.
BROTHER'S POINT, THE MIGHTY QUIRAING, THE SKYE MUSEUM OF ISLAND LIFE, AND DUNTULM.
Today was a REAL gift! It dawned with a beautiful blue sky, so we were eager to get going to walk one of the icons of the island - the Quiraing.
On the drive there, we stopped at a couple of places of interest, of which there are MANY if you ever visit the island. The whole island is dotted with these beautiful crofters cottages.
First stop was Brother's point, to see if we could find the dinosaur footprints. There is a museum next to the road, but we didn't go in, as we wanted to see the point, and get on to the Quiraing ASAP.
This was a really well restored crofters cottage, now a holiday home rental, above Brother's point..
When I see these graveyards, I can't help wondering how they get six feet down, or indeed IF they do, on such rocky ground?
The stunning views, looking back over our shoulders.
Looking over to Kilt Rock. This was as close as we were going to get, as the viewpoint was being upgraded and improved, so was closed for now. It also meant we couldn't see the famous waterfall.
The rugged coastline as we descended to Brother's point.
There WAS this small waterfall to see as we descended.
We never found the dino prints here - one major factor was the smell!!! There was obviously a LOT of rotting seaweed on the beach here, and it was obnoxious! We didn't fancy poking around in it, so we climbed back up and made our way to the Quiraing.
The winding road climbed inexorably towards the Quiraing. The views excited us as we gradually continued the drive up, mainly due to traffic. It was a minor mistake to come here late, as there was more traffic on the road than usual (this being a honeypot for visitors). When we got to the car park - it was full! We were SO lucky, as ONE car pulled out, and we nipped in.
Our route.
Here's Sue at the start - it's all uphill from here!
Looking forward, how can you NOT be excited by this?
We certainly were - VERY!
It was medium busy as we climbed. Not so much as to be a problem, but sometimes you had to pick your moment to take a picture.
Absolutely superb strata here - really prehistoric!
We saw this guy appear on top of the cliffs, above us on the left.
How the hell did he get up there, we wondered?
This is where we had lunch, and as we ate, we realised that this was how to access the cliff viewpoint.
After climbing up to the viewpoint.
You can see the path to the right of Sue. From there, it would look like she too was standing atop the cliffs (a bit of a cheat really).
View from the top.
Wide angle view of the valley and cliffs.
Click on this (or any other picture) to get a bigger view.
We were aiming for that col. We would decide then if we had time to turn right and walk to the end of the promontory, or go left, and up over the top of the Quiraing.
The numbers had thinned out a bit now, as we were well into the walk.
Sue, seeking divine advice :-)
You can click on ANY picture for a bigger version. It works especially well with these wide angle or panoramic shots.
With all this grandeur around us, it would be easy to miss the smaller things, like this beautiful clump of flowers.
I LOVE a good overhang!
Looking up to our goal - the tops.
The Quiraing castle.
Looking back, the Trotternish ridge loomed large.
This is how the path mostly is. A little rough in places, so good footwear (boots) is essential.
A happy lady!
Come on Les - keep up!
We soon reached the col, and decided that, in the time available, we couldn't walk the peninsula so we turned left and headed up the steep, grassy slope.
The view from the top.
As we topped the climb, the views were even better!
The walking was a bit easier too.
This is the view forwards. The pathfinding after here was a bit harder, but not really a problem.
The table. A hidden, flat piece of land where the local crofters and clansmen could 'hide' hundreds of sheep and cattle, as the plateau can't be seen from below .
Much needed path repairs were taking place while we were there.
As you get to the final part of the downward path, it becomes quite steep and treacherous. I wouldn't like to try this in the wet!
After our Quiraing adventure, we pressed on down to try and see the village museum, but we arrived JUST after they had closed, so we just nosed around and took a few pictures.
These are the houses representing how the old crofts used to look, and how the people lived.
After that, it was on to a derelict castle (of which there are MANY on Skye). This one is called Duntulm, and is so very photogenic.
The small islet in Tulm Bay doesn't have a name.
The castle was built in the 14th/15th century,
and was a fortification done because of the feuding between the Macdonalds and the MacLeods.
Although almost a total wreck now, it was improved and used later in it's life. It stood up to four stories high, and the only way in was through a small cleft in the sea cliff (which I investigated).
We left Duntulm to make our way back. We passed this beautiful example of a crofter's cottage.
PART THIRTEEN
BROTHER'S POINT, THE MIGHTY QUIRAING, THE SKYE MUSEUM OF ISLAND LIFE, AND DUNTULM.
Today was a REAL gift! It dawned with a beautiful blue sky, so we were eager to get going to walk one of the icons of the island - the Quiraing.
On the drive there, we stopped at a couple of places of interest, of which there are MANY if you ever visit the island. The whole island is dotted with these beautiful crofters cottages.
First stop was Brother's point, to see if we could find the dinosaur footprints. There is a museum next to the road, but we didn't go in, as we wanted to see the point, and get on to the Quiraing ASAP.
This was a really well restored crofters cottage, now a holiday home rental, above Brother's point..
When I see these graveyards, I can't help wondering how they get six feet down, or indeed IF they do, on such rocky ground?
The stunning views, looking back over our shoulders.
Looking over to Kilt Rock. This was as close as we were going to get, as the viewpoint was being upgraded and improved, so was closed for now. It also meant we couldn't see the famous waterfall.
The rugged coastline as we descended to Brother's point.
There WAS this small waterfall to see as we descended.
We never found the dino prints - one major factor was the smell!!! There was obviously a LOT of rotting seaweed on the beach here, and it was obnoxious! We didn't fancy poking around in it, so we climbed back up and made our way to the Quiraing.
The winding road climbed inexorably towards the Quiraing. The views excited us as we gradually continued the drive up, mainly due to traffic. It was a minor mistake to come here late, as there was more traffic on the road than usual (this being a honeypot for visitors). When we got to the car park - it was full! We were SO lucky, as ONE car pulled out, and we nipped in.
Our route.
Here's Sue at the start - it's all uphill from here!
Looking forward, how can you NOT be excited by this?
We were - VERY!
It was medium busy as we climbed. Not so much as to be a problem, but sometimes you had to pick your moment to take a picture.
Absolutely superb strata here - really prehistoric!
We saw this guy appear on top of the cliffs, above us on the left.
How the hell did he get up there, we wondered?
This is where we had lunch, and as we ate, we realised that this was how to access the cliff viewpoint.
After climbing up to the viewpoint.
You can see the path to the right of Sue. From there, it would look like she too was standing atop the cliffs (a bit of a cheat really).
View from the top.
Wide angle view of the valley and cliffs.
Click on this (or any other picture) to get a bigger view.
We were aiming for that col. We would decide then if we had time to turn right and walk to the end of the promontory, or go left, and up over the top of the Quiraing.
The numbers had thinned out a bit now, as we were well into the walk.
Sue, seeking divine advice :-)
You can click on ANY picture for a bigger version. It works especially well with these wide angle or panoramic shots.
With all this grandeur around us, it would be easy to miss the smaller things, like this beautiful clump of plants.
I LOVE a good overhang!
Looking up to our goal - the tops.
The Quiraing castle.
Looking back, the Trotternish ridge loomed large.
This is how the path mostly is. A little rough in places, so good footwear (boots) is essential.
A happy lady!
Come on Les - keep up!
We soon reached the col, and decided that, in the time available, we couldn't walk the peninsula, so we turned left and headed up the steep, grassy slope.
The view from the top.
As we topped the climb, the views were even better!
The walking was a bit easier too.
This is the view forwards. The pathfinding after here was a bit harder, but not really a problem.
The table. A hidden, flat piece of land where the local crofters and clansmen could 'hide' hundreds of sheep and cattle, as the plateau can't be seen from below .
Much needed path repairs were taking place while we were there.
As you get to the final part of the downward path, it becomes quite steep and treacherous. I wouldn't like to try this in the wet!
After our Quiraing adventure, we pressed on down to try and see the village museum, but we arrived JUST after they had closed, so we just nosed around and took a few pictures.
These are the houes representing how the old crofts used to look, and how the people lived.
After that, it was on to a derelict castle (of which there are MANY on Skye). This one is called Duntulm, and is so very photogenic.
The small islet in Tulm Bay doesn't have a name.
The castle was built in the 14th/15th century,
and was a fortification done because of the feuding between the Macdonalds and the MacLeods.
Although almost a total wreck now, it was improved and used later in it's life. It stood up to four stories high, and the only way in was through a small sleft in the sea cliff (which I investigated).
Afterwards,We decided to go back to Sligachan to walk up to the waterfalls.
We parked up and set off, with NO other people around.
The substantial bridge over the Allt Dearg Mor burn.
Although impressive - the views weren't half as good today as when we first arrived on Skye - then, they were incredible (as you will have seen at the beginning of the blog).
.....that's one small step for (wo)man......
Sue just couldn't WAIT to get immersed in this landscape.
Apart from the stunning surrounding scenery, there are lots of beautiful waterfalls and waterslides here and the walk up.
We passed this sad memorial - no idea what happened, or who they were, but they were tragically young. :-(
We looked down at this wonderful swimming hole - BUT it was really inaccessible. However.......
Now, as Goldilocks once said,
this place was JUUUUUST right!
"There's no-one coming - let's get in!"
And - before you could say 'FLASHER!', she was in!
I'm sure she was a mermaid in a previous life :-)
Oh, how Sue LOVES water - whatever the temperature!
The waterfall was SO cold, it gave her brain freeze!
After the swim, we headed back down to visit the micro brewery.
We were quite excited, as we both love craft beer.
It was and is, as expected, quite expensive. However, we were REALLY let down when the £17 burger came. The patty itself was lovely and well cooked, but the roll it was on was AWFUL!! One of those cheap, powdery things with no flavour, and it broke up when you tried to eat it.
You know that saying; 'Spoil the boat for a ha'porth of tar'?
This is a prime example.
We'd seen some sort of monument across the road, so before setting off back, we went across to have a look.
It's a very lovely sculpture to two great friends, John Mackenzie of Sconser, and professor Norman Collie.
You can read all about it by clicking;
PART THIRTEEN
THE STORR, LEALT FALLS AND
DINOSAUR FOOTPRINTS.
Yet another PERFECT day dawned - the weather Gods were with us again, as we drove to walk the Storr. This was the view that greeted us as we approached it.
As you can see, like all the 'honeypots', it gets VERY busy here. There's plenty of parking available, but it still gets full pretty early on.
Here we go then - another tick box to tackle.
I know that wistful look SO well - Sue was really looking forward to today. She's at her happiest when in mountains or water.
This little guy crossed our path as we made our way up.
The sharp crags were getting closer, and looking more exciting!
Some HUGE lumps - just seemingly balanced here! It makes you wonder how they got there in the beginning?
The famous Storr needle.
As you can see, the path is pretty good, but you still need strong, comfortable footwear (preferably boots).
Threading amongst the boulder field.
Panorama above the path.
Quite spectacular!
Not as many people as we thought there might be (yet!).
Ah - THIS is where they all were - on the top plateau!
The views from here are just incredible, and we were lucky to have them on a good day. A little cloudy, but we weren't complaining.
Heyyyyy - Wabbit!
A sea of beautiful bog cotton, with the most fantastic backdrop.
I LOVE to see it waving in the breeze like this.
We eventually reached the bottom. We chose a side path to return, in an effort to avoid the main path for a quieter walk back, and so it was. This lone piper was the perfect end to a marvellous walk to the Storr.
It was still fairly early when we got back down from the Storr so, on the way back, we called at Lealt Falls and also went to try and find dinosaur prints - hoping this time it was a little less smelly!
This is looking towards Brother's point, from Lealt Falls.
Lealt Falls.
The ruins of the old Diatomite factory.
You can read about it - click;
We moved on to An Corran beach, where some of the best dinosaur footprints are. It's just opposite Staffin island. This is a super one - there were a few others, but this was the best. It feels REALLY strange if you put your foot in it. To think, what had been there millions of years before!
The plateau where all the footprints are. It really DOES look like a muddy river or lagoon bed.
Quite a few fellow footprint - searchers were there too.
One last call on the way back. This was a high cliff above the sea. The official viewpoint was closed, but we found this one, and hoped to see dolphin - maybe a whale? The view to Kilt Rock was OK from here.
We saw a young woman lying on the top of the cliffs. She told us she was with a whale watching group, and there were several Minke whales swimming a way out. We waited patiently - but this was the best shot I got.
I know, I know - hardly a massive tail slapping the surface - but hey! I'm only a learner!
PART FOURTEEN,
MORVICH AND PLOCKTON.
After a glorious and rewarding two weeks on Skye, we moved to Morvich to start our journey home. The site was in the wilds, but very, very well run with a place for everything, and everything in it's place. However, it didn't feel at all 'regimented', and the people running it were really friendly. If you needed anything though, it was a trek to the nearest shop or pub, so if you go - go prepared!
This is the super view from our pitch.
Clean and tidy - Morvich.
Someone has a sense of humour - can you spot it?
View down Glen Croe.
Loch Dulch.
Ratagan viewpoint and the Seven Sisters range.
Panorama from Ratagan viewpoint.
The sun played on the few clouds about as we waited for sunset. It was deceptively cool this evening.
PART FIFTEEN
Plockton.
Next day, we made an early start to go to Plockton. Neither of us had been there before, but heard just how beautiful the place was and wanted to see for ourselves. Friends of ours holidayed here many times, and even had their honeymoon here, so if it was good enough for them........
First impressions - WOW!!
The most perfect, sleepy harbour, with fishing boats laid up in the sunshine. The day was bright, clear and sunny - conditions couldn't be better.
Why is a pile of lobster pots so photogenic?? I don't know, I just know I can't resist a picture when I see one.
The water was crystal clear.
The views up Loch Carron.
A pile of rusty chain - the lobster pot syndrome :-)
Panorama of Plockton harbour.
I wonder where he was off to in such a hurry?
Hub of the village - the Plockton Hotel.
This is where our friends stayed on their honeymoon. 💕
With being on the gulf stream, Plockton is special for gardens. There are many tropical plants and palms, and when we were there - lots of colourful blooms.
LOVE a palm tree 😍
The famous Plockton thatched cottage - available for holiday rental (if you have deep pockets)
The village also has it's own small distillery, which you can tour. As you would expect, the guy is VERY well informed and knowledgeable.
Tiny stills that actually work!
A spin around the distillery shop.
a 'do-er up-er' at rest on the shore.
Sue had heard about some gardens called 'Lilias's Garden, Rudha Mor' & so we sought it out at the top end of the village.
We were lucky enough to be able to chat with the owner, who told us lots about the history of the place. She pointed us in the right direction to do the circular walk, and off we went.
It's a steady walk up through the woods on good paths, and the views are just SO good, especially on a day like today.
You can read all about the gardens and their history - click;
This is looking across to Duncraig Castle.
Wonderful blooms all over the place.
How inviting is this mossy path?
Midge nursery!! 😲
We dropped off the path to tarry on a small private beach.
Just us here - no-one else.
Sea pinks nestling in the rocks.
We spent a long time enjoying the gardens and village. Afterwards, we went to the local bar and sat outside in the strong sunshine for a well-earned pint.
After refreshment, we set off back, stopping on the way to see the iconic Eilean Donan castle (well, you MUST, mustn't you?).
Featured in so many films, and on so many calendars, it's instantly recognisable.
It was quite difficult to get a good,
clear shot as the light wasn't right.
Then, it was back to Morvich and dinner.
What a beautiful evening - and NO midges.
PART SIXTEEN
GLENCOE AND
THE CLACHAIG INN.
Another move, this time to Invercoe caravan and motorhome park, just outside Glencoe village, for another two night stop.
The view was - well, see for yourself 😍
That little island in Loch Leven has the unusual name of; 'Discussion island'.
This front part of the site was a bit 'car park' and utilitarian, but the view more that made up for it. The pitches behind us on the main site were prettier.
We wanted to go to the famous Clachaig Inn in Glencoe. We've both been there before, and were keen to revisit. There's a path to it right from the site, up behind these houses and through the woods.
The riverside walk is very pleasant, BUT I can imagine it's alive with midges in the season. There were only an odd few knocking about now though (thankfully).
As expected, views to die for all around.
Here's the happy lady - right where she belongs - in the mountains.
I've walked the West Highland Way four times now. It's probably my favourite walk. One time, my brother and I walked the Aonach Egach ridge and, running out of time, were forced to descend via the so-called 'emergency route', which drops right off that big lump on the right, and into the Clachaig - result!
A welcome sight - The Clachaig Inn.
The lounge bar.
The busy Boots bar, with a superb selection of great food, beers, and of course, lots of Scotch.
The shady path back to Invercoe.
This is one of my favourite pictures from the whole holiday.
Peace and serenity personified.
FINAL PART
THE HIDDEN VALLEY
& GLENCOE.
This little bubble of a caravan was next to us. We got chatting to the people, and they LOVED it! He was quite tall and, apparently, only just fitted in lying down.
For our final walk, Sue wanted to show me the 'Hidden Valley', which I knew about but had never seen. Today - that was to change.
This was looking up the gully we would ascend to reach it.
Glencoe is really impressive for the views. One of the roads is actually called 'Skyfall Road' on the maps, because they filmed part of the James Bond movie around here.
Looking down Glencoe.
A movie of the view.
Pretty soon after setting off, we reached the shade of the lower woodlands. It was very warm and sticky today, so the cover was welcome.
A panorama of the view and path.
Click on it for a bigger version.
This little section is very awkward, and care has to be taken.
However, many waterfalls and steep climbs later - we arrived!
Yes, there was still snow in the high corries.
Whenever I see huge lumps of rock like this, I try to imagine what it was like the day they fell. It must have made a HELL of a noise as it rolled down!
We could have done with a rope bannister like this on that awkward section!
What better way to end the trip than with a piper to call us down? We've had the most amazing time here in Bonnie Scotland. Only a couple of rainy days, and NO MIDGES!!!
My other blogs (not as big as this one);
CYPRUS OCT 2022
https://holihoiliday.blogspot.com/2022/12/cyprus-coral-bay-october-2022-two-weeks.html
PARGA JUNE 2022
https://holihoiliday.blogspot.com/2022/08/parga-greece-2022.html
BUDAPEST NOVEMBER 2018
https://biggersteps.blogspot.com/2021/08/budapest-2018-best-pics.html
MALLORCA 2012
https://biggersteps.blogspot.com/2012/11/majorca-part-one.html
GRAN CANARIA 2012 MASPALOMAS
https://biggersteps.blogspot.com/2012/03/gran-canaria-2012-day-one.html
SKIATHOS SEPT 2015
https://skiathos2015.blogspot.com/2015/09/arrival-first-day-16th17th-september.html
CYPRUS CORAL BAY 2018
https://cypruscoralbay.blogspot.com/2020/04/day-1.html
PARGA OCT 2019 (HONEYMOON)
https://2019parga.blogspot.com/2020/04/parga-2019.html
FUERTEVENTURA CALETA DE FUSTE 2013
https://fuerteventurapics.blogspot.com/2013/04/fuerteventura-part-one-getting-settled.html
KEFALONIA CARAVOMILOS 2016
https://kefaloniablog2016.blogspot.com/2019/07/kefalonia-2016-staying-at-karavomilos.html
GRAN CANARIA MARCH 2018
https://gran2018.blogspot.com/2018/04/gran-canaria-2018.html
LANZAROTE 2016
https://lanzarotepics2.blogspot.com/2020/05/lanzarote-2016-part-one.html
MALLORCA 2013
https://www.blogger.com/u/1/blog/post/edit/3574557249150315453/689116775364332226
Krakow 2023
https://holihoiliday.blogspot.com/2023/02/krakow-poland-2023.html